Sewing Still Wednesday, Apr 5 2006 

Events and Garb Lisette la Mandeta 2:10 am

Well, another gathered Kirtle down, another well on the way and thanks to the Sterling efforts of Alice two sung robes (thanks Alice!! you are a legend)
Unfortunately I foolishly set foot in Spotlight today.. just for a minute.. just to pick up a couple of things like eyelets and lacing.. and over 20meters in fabric thanks to the $2 table. So now I have another 2 Kirtles to make after the one that is halfway done, another chemise, two or three pairs of pants for Zhou and a short robe. oh, and a velveteen cloak, a velveteen mantle and a silk velvet partlet to make. and a banner.

do you ever get the feeling you have taken too much on? I am not sure I will get this done in ONE WEEK! AARRGGH!

 

Sung Dynasty Robe Pattern Wednesday, Mar 29 2006 

Documentation and Garb Lisette la Mandeta 1:12 pm


As promised, here is the pattern I drafted for a Chinese robe. Specifically a Sung Dynasty robe (click on the picture for a larger copy). This pattern is very simple, highly flexible and can be used a number of ways which I will illustrate over time – if I have time with all my sewing!

Measurements:
a: Measure across the back from shoulder to shoulder.
b: Measure from the shoulders to the floor
c: The same length as a
d: Measure the length of the arm from the shoulders to the middle knuckle on the fingers
The arms are where it starts to get tricky as this is dependent on the width of the fabric and the desired fullness of the sleeves. as you can see the width of the end of the sleeve and the top of the sleeve should match evenly in a nice diagonal. e: Measure around the arm snugly then use the full measurement for e. if there is not enough fabric there is a margin as e is doubled when sewn (as there are two pieces-front sleeve and back sleeve) but you do want the sleeves to be nice and roomy at the underarm and nice and full at the wrist.
f is the remainder and the full part of the sleeve that hangs at the wrist.

If you want even more fullness you can make d across the width if there is enough fabric and take the length as long as you like by drawing your diagonal lengthways instead. To decide on how wide to make the fullest part of the sleeve have the arm out at shoulder height and drop the tape measure to the length you want. this will make e.

I suggest 112 width fabric or wider. you want to fold it lengthwise so you have a really skinny long piece of fabric. By adding b to c and d you can estimate the length of the fabric. if you want super long sleeves you can add b to c and e to f.

I am hoping to illustrate this later and will go into the sewing instructions next time.

 

Dummy Dummy Dummy Wednesday, Feb 22 2006 

Garb Lisette la Mandeta 3:21 am

I have a dressmakers dummy finally. wow its amazing. It has already justified its whopping $25 price tag. It was in an op shop and looked a bit busted but anyone who has played with one for a while would know that the screws and stuff can pop out easily but it easy to fix it.
It is O-Week at St Monica’s this week and I am going to go with my husband tomorrow. I don’t have any specky garb to take but I might be able to quickly adjust something. maybe.

I have some new early period garb I made up for small events and easy wear. it is very red. very very red. it still needs to come in a bit but it will suffice. it is hard to adjust garb on yourself – thankfully I have a dressmakers dummy now!

The main issue is that I have lost about 4 inches off my hips and waist. my bust however has only lost 2. I also need everyday garb, as I have been concentrating on evening wear and specky garb (its more fun!) so I now have a basic early period dress and will be making two gathered kirtles. fortunately I have all the fabric for this! but I think no time to make something new for tomorrow, or for the Twilight tourney.However.. with my new dummy, I may be able to quickly take in a corset and dress! or I will be lazy and wear Early Period.

 

Found! Documentation Tuesday, Feb 7 2006 

Documentation and Garb Lisette la Mandeta 1:30 pm

I have found my files of documentation and will be scanning some of them in soon. Based on this exciting find I ran through my fabric boxes to see what I had. A long time ago – when I got my fabric boxes, I was mocked for setting up a database and creating a list of fabric, that I could sort by color, length and fabric makeup. in a flash of anal retentiveness I also cut swatches to keep with a printed list with the boxes.
Well, who’s laughing now? I had a look through my swatches and list and got several ideas. It turns out that I have some great wool blends to make some gathered kirtles from for me. and more brocade than I thought, both chinese brocade for Zhou and a beautiful gold silk brocade for me that was far better than I remembered. I also have about 6 meters of a cotton drill that I might make into something. or two somethings.

I am looking forward to making up some gear for everyday wear. The Guild Ascension day reminded me that I didn’t have anything for everyday wear. I am making an early period gown for easy-wear but I want some good french gowns that are appropriate for my persona. I am excited by some robes I found on a great chinese site too – when i work out the patterns for the chinese garb I will put them up.